Adding Spice to Your Jewelry Design is Fun
Cynthia had these awesome Amonites to be set. But she wanted sass, spice and something different. She asked me, “what can we do to set my ammonites uniquely? What Calla Gold Jewelry designing secret do you have up your sleeve?”. As a matter of fact I did have this technique I was itching to use. Pierced through design!
What Makes a Pierced Through Design?
When you have an expanse of gold and you create negative space in it for a design, that is a pierced through design element. That negative space needs to go through from top to bottom. Cynthia’s gems suggested cobwebs in its pattern look. I decided to use a pierced through design to mimic the cobwebby look.
Another Time I Used This Element
Sharon and Lee wanted special Celtic letters for their wedding bands. This presented a challenge in that none of us spoke Celtic. Lee chose the letters.
He found examples of the letters on the internet. With out those examples I’d have been unable to give him what he wanted.
We discussed whether to engrave the letters on a solidly made wedding band or to engrave the letters into the wax model so they’d be deeper into the gold.
Lee wanted the letters to go all the way through. This was my first time to make a wedding band with pierced through designs.
The letters were hand carved all the way through in a wax model we made for both of the rings.
They’ve gotten lots of comments on how unusual their bands are.
Using it in Vintage Jewelry
I’d like to point out how this differs from filigree. Some would refer to this detail as filigree. But notice how solid the metal is all the way through the ring where it is pierced through.
Click on the image to expand it and see the solidness of the metal where the spaces are.
How is Filigree Different?
With filigree you add the element by using wire. Filigree traditionally is not a supportive element in a ring. If you hit filigree repeatedly on rough surfaces it will bend where the surrounding ring will hold firm.
When working with filigree we first create the frame for where the filigree with go. There are many techniques for filigree making. What I describe here is not the be all end all description.
Once the frame is created then the decorative wire work is done. After the ring is cast and polished, the filigree is added.
Using Pierced Through to Create a Botanical Feel
She needed a wider ring because her knuckles were larger and a narrow ring would spin.
Knowing I had a wider canvas to work on I wanted to make sure the width didn’t feel heavy as wide solid bands sometimes can.
Being able to see through a ring to the skin below often lightens the visual feel of a ring making the pierced through design helpful in larger ring designs.
Using it Just a Bit
When working on this skull ring I was layering on different texture techniques and added a couple of pierced through elements. It really added to the whole ring.
My Video on Pierced Through Design as an Element
Would You Enjoy a Pierced Through Design Element in Your Ring Design?
Your Pierced Through Designing Jeweler,