12 responses

  1. LYNNE
    August 11, 2011

    I JUST BROKE A PRONG ON MY RING & THE DIAMOND
    CAME OUT. I WILL NEED TO REPLACE THE HEAD OF THE RING. NORMALLY WHEN A YELLOW GOLD RING HEAD IS REPLACED IS IT REPLACED W/WHITE GOLD ALLOY OR WITH WHITE GOLD ALLOW W/GOLD TIPS OR JUST W/
    YELLOW GOLD HEAD. KIND OF CONFUSED. MY JEWELER IS TALKING ABOUT USING A WHITE GOLD HEAD. I THINK MINE IS WHITE GOLD HEAD W/YELLOW GOLD TIPS.

    • Calla Gold
      August 12, 2011

      Lynne, we jewelers like to set your nice white diamonds with white gold. White gold heads do not have yellow tips. They are cast up in all white gold. The yellow tips may just be an effect of time on your white gold and it’s reaction to life and the chemicals you come in contact with. If you were replacing a head to set a colored gemstone then you might be able to use a yellow gold head, but for diamonds white gold is the preferred choice.
      Calla

  2. Kate D.
    February 14, 2013

    Hello Calla, I’m interested in a Kirk Kara platinum solitaire semi mount. Currently it’s set with a cz princess for visual purposes.
    When asked if my stone would fit, she replied, “The prongs as they are now would not accommodate a stone that wide. You would have to have the entire head remade.” It looks to me like this mounting was not cast with a separate head. Would it be feasible to modify this ring for a bigger stone? IE: 8x6mm ? How much would it cost to custom fabricate a new head for a Kirk Kara ring?
    Reading about heads really helped me see the difference between cast-in prongs and separately cast and soldered on heads. Calla I’m hoping you can help me.
    Kate

    • Calla Gold
      February 15, 2013

      Hi Kate,
      Thank you for emailing me the picture of the Kirk Kara ring. You are right that those prongs are cast-in and not a separate head.
      I’d like to see a top view of the design to see if I cast you a new head if I could solder it on securely.
      I am concerned that we would be changing the design somewhat. Let’s talk further by email.
      I’m pleased that the post about re-tipping vs. a new head gave you helpful information.
      Your Personal Jeweler,
      Calla

  3. Sam Mefford
    March 18, 2013

    After my wife handed her wedding ring to a jeweler for repair, she came across this blog post. We’re now concerned because the jeweler said he should re-tip all four prongs. He says he uses a laser so the weld is just as strong as a cast crown. I see videos on youtube showing re-tipping with a laser, so that adds some validity to his position. I also see here a claim that laser welds are 95% as strong as the original metal: http://www.curtparker.com/usefulinfo/usefuinfo5.htm

    Your post doesn’t mention laser repairs. Is it possible that the rules are different with laser repairs?

    • Calla Gold
      March 19, 2013

      Dear Sam,
      Thank you for your well articulated questions and links offered.
      This is my opinion based on experience in the workshop. In theory laser welds are very strong. However there is a big difference between open flame solder and laser solder. With open flame solder the soldering metal, for example 14kt yellow gold is heated and dribbles if you will all over, in and around the area being soldered. The two pieces of gold are brought together with the melted solder and joined. Then all is cooled and polishing takes places to make it look as good as new. That’s a pretty strong bond we have created. However solder even though 14kt is not as strong as the cast original 14kt gold. If the solder was as strong I’d have to melt the ring when putting it back together. Because solder has a lower melting point than cast in gold, it is not as strong. This is why I do not re-tip multiple prong tips but recommend the strength of a new head if that is an option.
      With some designs you cannot use a new head as the prongs are part of the overall design. If that is the case the new prongs will not last as long as the cast in ones. So they’ll need to be checked sooner.
      Now to laser soldering. With laser the solder is melting in smaller areas. Yes it is strong, but because there is less solder used it can create a brittle solder point.
      I had the embarrassing experience of laser soldering on a design element and having it snap off in under a year. I re-soldered the broken off element very carefully with open flame solder which necessitated un-setting and resetting the surrounding gems to protect them. But the element is still successfully in place because more solder was able to hold the connection together.
      I find the claim in the Curt Parker link to be false from my personal experience.
      Sam if your wife’s ring offers the option, by virtue of it’s design, a new head replacement, my opinion is that a new head replacement offers her diamond more lasting protection than would 4 re-tipped prongs.
      http://www.goldsmithing.com/archive/index.php?t-394.html( Read the comment of Jim Jim 75 about brittle solders.)
      I figured since you so kindly provided a link I should do the same. If you Google laser soldering jewelry prongs, brittleness, you’ll get a variety of descriptions of problems with laser soldering.
      I like laser soldering for many jobs. Re-tipping four prongs is not one of them.
      Your Personal Jeweler,
      Calla

  4. Andrea Peach
    March 27, 2013

    Dear Calla,
    For my wedding, I inherited my parents wedding ring set. The center ring sat perfectly and was braced (sandwiched) in the middle of a second ring, such that the over all design of the ring made it look like a flower. After 10 years of marriage (added on to the 35 years my mother had it) 2 of the prongs pulled up. No problem, I took it to a recommended jeweler, inquired if they could repair vintage jewelry and opted for a new head. When I went to pick it up, the replacement head for the center diamond had much thicker prongs that the original one and the ring did not fit into the second ring. The jeweler offered to adjust it, saying it would be no problem. The problem is that the ring continues to “glide” out of the second mate, even after her adjustment. I am heart broken. My husband wants me to bring it back to her, but I don’t know what to do. Any suggestions would be ever so welcomed!

    • Calla Gold
      April 1, 2013

      Dear Andrea,
      That is a tough problem you have there. Now that the work is done and the head is not the same as the old one, the three ring combination is not functioning as designed.
      Working on older rings is it’s own specialty. Many jewelers rely on the available heads when replacing a head. And like setting a modern brilliant cut diamond to replace and match an old European cut and having it clash with the older diamonds and make them look bad, a more modern head can mess up the look of an older ring.
      I recently had to cast up a new older style head for a client with a 50 year old ring. The new heads don’t look like hers, so I had a wax model made to duplicate it, cast it up and set her main diamond in the new ‘old’ setting. Not all jewelers will go to this level of work to create the same look with older rings. Not all jewelers know how, especially if they are used to using a catalog to buy replacement parts.
      My recommendation to you would be to find a jeweler who custom designs and works on older jewelry and bring your ring set to them and see if they can recommend any steps to take to make your three rings snug together like they used to.
      Without seeing your ring I am at a disadvantage to give good advice. I feel that there is a way, even if you start from scratch and have an older style vintage-y head created and put on to replace the one you have.
      I hope you are able to resolve the head problem and have your beautiful older ring singing on your hand again.
      Your Personal Jeweler,
      Calla

  5. Brandi
    October 14, 2013

    How often should you need to replace the head on a solitaire? I went in to my jeweler for a check up.First they said i needed a retip and then they called back and said the actual jeweler said it required a whole new head… We bought the ring 3 years ago. I feel like its really early for me to need a new head? Is this time frame normal or am i getting ripped off? OR could this be a factor in the quality of the ring?

    • Calla Gold
      October 14, 2013

      Hi Brandi,
      Thanks for writing. Three years is a bit soon to need a new head. My guess is the bench jeweler saw more damage than just one prong. I usually re-tip if there is one damaged tip, but go for a new head if two or more prongs are damaged.
      It could have been a substandard head to begin with or it could have been slightly too small for your diamond. That can quicken the death of a head.
      It is possible that factors in your environment just caused too many shocks to the ring.
      Did they have you look at the damage under a loupe and show you where the damage was? That is a good way to know if there is damage or someone is padding their bottom line.
      Good luck with your sweet ring.
      Calla Gold

  6. Kate
    April 9, 2014

    I have a platinum Edwardian engagement ring, with 4 cast in prongs. The center diamond is loose, and everywhere I go to get a quote, they tell me different information. I need to get my prongs re-tipped, and would prefer to do it in platinum, since the metal is all platinum currently. One shop is telling me they can only do white gold because the heat of the laser to put platinum tips would burn the diamond; other shops are telling me they can do it in platinum. There are not many jewelers where I live that are very familiar with fine antique jewelry, so I am nervous to take it somewhere, but I don’t want to lose my diamond. Any advice would be very much appreciated!

    • Calla Gold
      April 11, 2014

      Hi Kate,
      I’d like to respond to what each of the jewelers has said to you, with a here’s what we do and believe answer.
      Jeweler #1
      One shop is telling me they can only do white gold because the heat of the laser to put platinum tips would burn the diamond
      My response –
      I remove the diamonds in the affected area so heat will not be an issue with the diamonds or gemstones in the setting. I wouldn’t use open flame or laser solder when working a prongs with the gems right there in the work zone. They want to use white gold because it has a lower melting point and is easier and cheaper to work with. The problem is that it is a different color of metal and it has a different wear pattern. These two similar metals do look different enough over time that I do not recommend doing white gold re-tips on platinum rings.

      Jeweler #2
      other shops are telling me they can do it in platinum.
      I’m liking the other shops telling you they do platinum on platinum repairs. Find out if they have a separate area and tools to work platinum. A professional has a separate platinum work area as tools that have worked gold and are then used on platinum can ‘contaminate’ the platinum. This creates a look we call thermal burn where the non-platinum metal looks darker, like a little black zit on your ring.
      For the record we have a separate platinum bench and tools that we only use for platinum. And different gas for open flame soldering and a laser machine for fine work. We’d use laser and platinum on your prong.
      I hope this was helpful Kate.
      Your Personal Jeweler,
      Calla

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