31

Dec.

Re-Shanking Your Rings; What, Why and When?

By Calla Gold

Like an Iceberg to the Titanic, Thin Ring Shanks Spell Trouble For You

Whether it’s a pinched finger with a little blood, because of a crack on the bottom of your ring, or a big chunk just broke away, it’s never good when your ring falls apart.

What is a Too-Thin Shank?

Some rings are too thin in the shank, the part that goes around your finger from middle to the bottom.

14kt Yellow Gold Signet Ring

Dangerously Thin Shank

The problem with thin and narrow shanks is they break, bend, and crack more easily and rapidly than thicker ones. The crown portion, or top part of the ring with the design and gemstones, needs the support of the shank.

Band Aid Repair

This plain signet ring (pictured), was allowed to get so thin, because there were no gemstones on top to fall out. So the owner of it just kept getting it re shaped as round.

That’s what I call a band-aid repair. It fixes it, sort of. It’ll just go out of shape on you again, fairly quickly. And crack at any time.

Sharon’s Dropping Diamonds -The Real World Example

 

Platinum and Diamond Band Ring in Side Channels

Sharon had a channel set style ring made for her inherited antique diamonds. Not by me. Unfortunately she’d been losing one diamond a year for about three years.

She was especially upset because they were sentimental antique diamonds and the new modern-cut ones the Jeweler set made her older ones look a bit dull.

A happy client of mine introduced us, saying I was her “Bestest Santa Barbara Jewelry Repair and Design Person.” I’ll cop to that!

Sharon showed me her noticably thin shanked ring. I pointed out that it allowed the upper part of the ring to bend, and the settings to open up a bit under stress.

This would explain the dropped diamonds. I could see that two of her channels had been re-built, but the real problem remained. I said we needed to support the channels with a wider and thicker shank. We needed to do a re-shank job.

What Thicker Shanks Do

Thicker shanks are stronger and provide better support for the crown – the top part – of the ring.  Thicker shanks don’t bend like thin ones.  They hold the shape of the ring, like the foundation holds the parts of a building together.

Thick Shanked Ring

Thick Shanked Ring

Re-Shanking Your Thin or Cracked Shank

Re-Shanking rings is a relatively straightforward process.   The old thin shank is cut away with a saw and a new, thicker and wider section is custom made and soldered into its place.

Take out the old.  Put in the new! This is such a satisfying repair job to do. It makes such a difference to the ring and adds to it longer life.

Sharon’s Happy Result

We re-shanked Sharon’s antique diamond channel-set ring three years ago. We also replaced the new blingy diamonds with older Antique diamonds to match her original ones.

She’s worn it daily and all the diamonds are still in their settings! This was a much less expensive solution than she had anticipated. She was referred to me because she had been planning to make a new diamond ring to replace her diamond-dropping ring.

Do it Before it Breaks

A thinner shank weakens your ring and opens the door to cracking and weakness developing throughout your ring. Don’t wait till a gemstone falls out, or your ring bends like a pretzel. Look at it; think about your lifestyle, if you’re active you may need a thicker shank than your Grandmother. No maybes about it!

If your ring shank is too thin, get it fixed before it gets you into trouble. Getting pinched by your cracked ring or trapped in your bent-out-of-shape ring is no laughing matter.

Re-Shanking Can Give New Life to Your Older Ring

Many a cracked, bent, broken and sawed-off ring have I saved, with re-shanking. It remains one of my favorite repair jobs to this day. Do you have a candidate for re-shanking gathering dust in your jewelry box?

See my re-shanking video:

Calla Gold
www.callagold.com

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15 Responses to “Re-Shanking Your Rings; What, Why and When?”

Renee January 21st, 2011 at 7:03 am


Something we lay people never think of! A shank? I was wondering when you might have gone to prison! Seems like the shank is such a simple fix to what could be serious problems! Nice work!

Calla Gold January 21st, 2011 at 2:33 pm


Thank you for your funny comment! Re-shanking is one of my favorite repairs because it just saves the ring. I’m glad you came to the blog.

Abraham November 23rd, 2011 at 12:01 pm


How thick should the shank be in your opinion? Should 3 mm in thickness (I dont mean width of the band of the shank but I mean if you were to look at it from the side and determine that thickness) on a 14k gold ring be sufficient enough to hold a genuine ruby on top of a mans square set ring?

Calla Gold November 23rd, 2011 at 8:23 pm


Abraham, you ask a good question. For a man’s ring 3mm is a sturdy depth. The depth of 2mm might also be strong enough for your purpose. Some people don’t like too much depth feel on the bottom of their rings. So 2.5 mm depth is usually the most I’m asked for from a comfort standpoint.
Calla Gold

ivan March 5th, 2013 at 6:10 pm


Thanks so much for this blog post on ring re-shanking. I wonder if you give me an idea of what I could/should expect to pay to have a sterling silver ring (with diamonds) re-shanked (wider shank on bottom of ring)?
Thanks so much.

Calla Gold March 6th, 2013 at 9:39 am


Hi Ivan,
Thanks for your inquiry. I’ve privately e-mailed you about this question.
Your Personal Jeweler,
Calla

Joyce Kane June 10th, 2013 at 4:03 pm


Hi Calla,
Can you re-size a re-shanked ring?
Thanks

Calla Gold June 10th, 2013 at 5:02 pm


Hello Joyce,
Thank you for your question. A re-shanked ring can be re-sized, I have done it many times for my jewelry loving arthritic clients.
Calla Gold

Joyce August 5th, 2013 at 1:10 pm


Hi, I have my Grandmother’s old wedding ring. I want to use this as a shank for my other ring. both rings are 14 carrot white gold. Can this be done. I bought the original ring at Beldon Jeweler’s and brought it to them. She said that they “might” be able to do this repair, but she didn’t think so because the quality of my Grandmother’s ring might be too porous. Please let me know what you think.
Thanks,
Joyce

Julie September 16th, 2013 at 8:09 am


Hi, I have a gent’s 9ct onyx signet ring, which has been caught at the top where the onyx is set and has cracked and has also worn very thin. The ring is inexpensive but sentimental. I am wondering whether the stone can either be reset or if the ring is thin all over it can still be re-shanked and hold the onyx safely?

Calla Gold September 16th, 2013 at 7:15 pm


Dear Julie,
I personally think that sentimental value is worth more than the price tag on a ring. I’ve fixed many older men’s rings. Sometimes I need to re-shank and add gold the top.
Having a new thicker shank gives stability to the top portion of the ring.
I have emailed you as well and look forward to working with you.
Your Personal Jeweler,
Calla

Rob October 16th, 2013 at 4:56 am


Does re-shanking a ring devalue the price of the ring at the resale level?

Calla Gold October 16th, 2013 at 5:42 am


Rob,
I have done re-shanking for estate dealers as well as people who have worn the backs of their rings thin through wear. I am not an appraiser, so my answer is not the be all end all answer. Re-shanking is not a visible repair, like sizing you cannot tell it was done when done properly. It is a part of a ring’s life maintenance.
In my opinion it improves the ring, as a ring that is too thin is not supporting the entire design and can allow yawing to happen in the top design portion that can lead to cracking and weakness above.
I believe that re-shanking does not harm the value of a ring for re-sale.
Calla Gold

Cindy Snider February 7th, 2014 at 6:48 pm


I have an antique ring that needs re-shanked, how much would it cost?? It is white gold multi diamond ring that I gave to my daughter, and she wore it till the band split. All of the diamonds are still in tact.

Calla Gold February 8th, 2014 at 6:37 am


Hello Cindy,
Thank you for coming by my blog and inquiring about a re-shank project.
I’m afraid that asking how much it costs to re-shank a ring is like asking how much a one carat diamond is. With a diamond there is shape, cut, color and clarity. Each detail changes the price.
With rings the factors that go into pricing include; the design, age of the metal, style of the ring, depth and width of the finished re-shank. Generally my re-shank clients bring me their ring or ship it to me to determine a price.
Are you in the Santa Barbara area?
Your Personal Jeweler,
Calla Gold

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