37 responses

  1. Renee
    January 21, 2011

    Something we lay people never think of! A shank? I was wondering when you might have gone to prison! Seems like the shank is such a simple fix to what could be serious problems! Nice work!

    Reply

    • Calla Gold
      January 21, 2011

      Thank you for your funny comment! Re-shanking is one of my favorite repairs because it just saves the ring. I’m glad you came to the blog.

      Reply

  2. Abraham
    November 23, 2011

    How thick should the shank be in your opinion? Should 3 mm in thickness (I dont mean width of the band of the shank but I mean if you were to look at it from the side and determine that thickness) on a 14k gold ring be sufficient enough to hold a genuine ruby on top of a mans square set ring?

    Reply

    • Calla Gold
      November 23, 2011

      Abraham, you ask a good question. For a man’s ring 3mm is a sturdy depth. The depth of 2mm might also be strong enough for your purpose. Some people don’t like too much depth feel on the bottom of their rings. So 2.5 mm depth is usually the most I’m asked for from a comfort standpoint.
      Calla Gold

      Reply

  3. ivan
    March 5, 2013

    Thanks so much for this blog post on ring re-shanking. I wonder if you give me an idea of what I could/should expect to pay to have a sterling silver ring (with diamonds) re-shanked (wider shank on bottom of ring)?
    Thanks so much.

    Reply

    • Calla Gold
      March 6, 2013

      Hi Ivan,
      Thanks for your inquiry. I’ve privately e-mailed you about this question.
      Your Personal Jeweler,
      Calla

      Reply

  4. Joyce Kane
    June 10, 2013

    Hi Calla,
    Can you re-size a re-shanked ring?
    Thanks

    Reply

    • Calla Gold
      June 10, 2013

      Hello Joyce,
      Thank you for your question. A re-shanked ring can be re-sized, I have done it many times for my jewelry loving arthritic clients.
      Calla Gold

      Reply

  5. Joyce
    August 5, 2013

    Hi, I have my Grandmother’s old wedding ring. I want to use this as a shank for my other ring. both rings are 14 carrot white gold. Can this be done. I bought the original ring at Beldon Jeweler’s and brought it to them. She said that they “might” be able to do this repair, but she didn’t think so because the quality of my Grandmother’s ring might be too porous. Please let me know what you think.
    Thanks,
    Joyce

    Reply

  6. Julie
    September 16, 2013

    Hi, I have a gent’s 9ct onyx signet ring, which has been caught at the top where the onyx is set and has cracked and has also worn very thin. The ring is inexpensive but sentimental. I am wondering whether the stone can either be reset or if the ring is thin all over it can still be re-shanked and hold the onyx safely?

    Reply

    • Calla Gold
      September 16, 2013

      Dear Julie,
      I personally think that sentimental value is worth more than the price tag on a ring. I’ve fixed many older men’s rings. Sometimes I need to re-shank and add gold the top.
      Having a new thicker shank gives stability to the top portion of the ring.
      I have emailed you as well and look forward to working with you.
      Your Personal Jeweler,
      Calla

      Reply

  7. Rob
    October 16, 2013

    Does re-shanking a ring devalue the price of the ring at the resale level?

    Reply

    • Calla Gold
      October 16, 2013

      Rob,
      I have done re-shanking for estate dealers as well as people who have worn the backs of their rings thin through wear. I am not an appraiser, so my answer is not the be all end all answer. Re-shanking is not a visible repair, like sizing you cannot tell it was done when done properly. It is a part of a ring’s life maintenance.
      In my opinion it improves the ring, as a ring that is too thin is not supporting the entire design and can allow yawing to happen in the top design portion that can lead to cracking and weakness above.
      I believe that re-shanking does not harm the value of a ring for re-sale.
      Calla Gold

      Reply

  8. Cindy Snider
    February 7, 2014

    I have an antique ring that needs re-shanked, how much would it cost?? It is white gold multi diamond ring that I gave to my daughter, and she wore it till the band split. All of the diamonds are still in tact.

    Reply

    • Calla Gold
      February 8, 2014

      Hello Cindy,
      Thank you for coming by my blog and inquiring about a re-shank project.
      I’m afraid that asking how much it costs to re-shank a ring is like asking how much a one carat diamond is. With a diamond there is shape, cut, color and clarity. Each detail changes the price.
      With rings the factors that go into pricing include; the design, age of the metal, style of the ring, depth and width of the finished re-shank. Generally my re-shank clients bring me their ring or ship it to me to determine a price.
      Are you in the Santa Barbara area?
      Your Personal Jeweler,
      Calla Gold

      Reply

  9. Heather
    February 8, 2015

    I have ring that needs to be places or reset into different band as I am allergic to what band came with it, it’s cz and blue topaz. I wonder to take out stones buy new band to have this reset what I may be looking at ? I basically need new band in white gold. I can send pic of ring now to you to see

    Reply

    • Calla Gold
      February 9, 2015

      Hello Heather,
      I’d like to see pictures of your ring. What metal are your gems set in now?
      Email me at calla@callagold.com
      I’ll respond by email too.
      Your Personal Jeweler,
      Calla

      Reply

      • Calla Gold
        February 11, 2015

        Hi Ashley,
        I’ll reply by email.
        Your Personal Jeweler,
        Callaa

        Reply

  10. Lindy
    March 29, 2015

    Dear Calla, I spoke with you on the phone today about my wedding rings- I am sadly divorcing and need to sell it, so looking for a) appraisal and b) shank repair estimates. Attached in my email to you are various pics and the diamond’s 2003 Summation of Appraisal card. In 2003, we paid Jared Galleria of Jewelry: $1700 for the band set (with a $1700 insurance replacement certificate) $650 for the main diamond. I would love to know what you think of resale value I might get. I’m thinking also of having it re-shanked before trying to sell. Should I re-shank 1/4 or 1/2 of the shank?

    Reply

    • Calla Gold
      March 30, 2015

      Dear Lindy,
      I would use the appraisal form that Jared gave you. It has the information anyone buying it would want. Do not spend money re-appraising it. You won’t get it back.
      I also would not reshank your rings. Yes they are a bit thin on the bottom, but not near the red zone in any way.
      Because the center diamond is not over a carat this is harder to sell. It isn’t anything I’d buy, I just buy carat and above diamonds and gold for melt.
      I’d say clean and polish them if needed and then market them via Craig’s list or people you know.
      I’m sorry I haven’t any great ideas other than to save money by not investing more in anticipation of getting more for them. In my experience no one pays extra for re-shanking or fresh appraisals especially on smaller diamond rings.
      I’d try to sell them as they are, just cleaned up. They are pretty just the way they are.
      Your Personal Jeweler,
      Calla

      Reply

  11. Calla Gold
    March 30, 2015

    Thanks for the email Calla! It is kind of you to take the time. A friend of mine let me contact their family’s diamond broker in downtown LA jewelry district this morning and I paid him a visit. He gave me a complimentary appraisal and said $500 if he buys it from me ($100 for gold, $400 for the diamonds), or maybe I could get $1,000 on the private market, maybe $1,100 with my Jared Galleria diamond repair plan active on the ring. I’ll try to sell on Craigslist first, but will not spend money re-shanking. Thank you so much for taking time to give me good advice. Times like these I am grateful for angels who help me through! 🙂

    My best to you,
    Lindy

    Reply

  12. Hunter
    April 13, 2015

    Good article Calla, answered my Google query perfectly.
    For those considering whether to reshank their rings:
    I am a metal detectorist, and can say that probably 40% of rings I find have thin and broken shanks.

    Reply

    • Calla Gold
      April 13, 2015

      Hello Hunter,
      What a unique perspective you must have. That is so interesting that 40% of rings you find had thin or broken shanks.
      I visited a client of mine last week. She had a split shank design and it had cracked so she took it off and called me. When I came over and inspected the ring. When the shank had broken it effected the top of the ring. Two prongs out of six were broken. I told her she could have lost her diamond. Later in our appointment she was picking up her ring and the main diamond did fall out. She was so smart to take it off the minute she realized there was a problem. I figured the collision that broke the two prongs also caused the shank to break. Once the shank was broken the top of the ring didn’t have the support it needed.
      Needless to say I will be doing some work. She’d worn the ring for 30 years and the surrounding unbroken prongs were very weak and worn, so it wouldn’t have taken much of a hit for this to happen. She recalled no hit to the ring. Which is very normal.
      Her ring could have ended up being found by someone like you in a different circumstance. Happily her over a carat diamond is safe and she merely had a scare and not a loss.
      Re-shanking your ring does much to keep whole the integrity of the settings for your diamonds and gemstones.
      Thanks for sharing your statistics Hunter!
      Your Re-Shanking Jeweler,
      Calla Gold

      Reply

  13. Linda Coultrup
    April 17, 2015

    Why would the shank on a platinum ring crack if it is not misshapen or thin as you have previously described? The ring has not been resized to my knowledge although after a stone was reset the ring I received back although identical was not mine as it was too small! I wonder if it was resized without my knowledge?

    Reply

    • Calla Gold
      April 18, 2015

      Hi Linda,
      My jeweler detective antenae are quivering. That’s a proper mystery you have on your hands. That is indeed odd that your ring is now too small after the re-setting of your gemstone. I wish I knew why that happened, but I do not.
      Your Personal Jeweler,
      Calla

      Reply

  14. paula mason-reeves
    May 1, 2015

    I really need to find a jeweler to duplicate the head on my ring. I’m worried for my diamond because two of my prongs are worn. The other two prongs have been re-tipped in the past and one of the re-tips appears to be cracking at the connection point.
    I love the design and the heads I’m being offered are pre-made and lack the design flair of my original design. If I use one of these heads which it has been pointed out to me would fit just fine, the character of my ring will be forever altered.
    It is a designed head from 30 or 40 years ago and no one makes it now.

    Reply

    • Calla Gold
      May 1, 2015

      Dear Paula,
      Do you have a custom jeweler in your town?
      If not is this something you would ship to get done?
      Your Personal Jeweler,
      Calla

      Reply

  15. Francine
    May 8, 2015

    I just had a crack in my class ring fixed. The jewelers suggested I be very careful as they say there are many solder marks (it has been repaired before) and they think it will crack again and not be able to be repaired again? It’s gold?! Is there a limit to reshanking or resizing?

    Reply

    • Calla Gold
      May 9, 2015

      Hi Francine,
      I’m pleased that you’ve had your class ring repaired. I’m sharing with you a bit about open flame soldering which is the typical method for repairing gold rings, and other metals for that matter. It addresses previous work and the concern that jewelers would have:
      “Soldering is the process of joining two pieces of heated metal together with a similar metal (i.e., the “solder.”) The solder is a small piece of metal that has a lower melting point than your jewelry piece, which is typically heated with a torch until the solder flows. Many pieces of jewelry have beautifully invisible solder seams—also called “joints”— and these solder joints can be undone if too high a heat is applied in later jewelry repairs.” From Chapter 8 – All About Soldering and Welding: Open Flame vs Laser in my upcoming book, “How to Talk to Your Jeweler About Rings.”
      Now that you’ve read this and know that open flame solder has the potential to undue previous solder joints, know that there is a new kid in town to consider when repairing your ring. That new kid technique is laser welding.
      See more about this technique in my blog post:
      http://www.callagold.com/jewelry-repair/how-laser-ring-soldering-fixes-fragile-and-unfixable-rings/
      My guess is that your ring can be repaired in the future. You may need to have techniques changed to laser welding to protect previous solder joints, but you should be able to have your ring repaired numerous times in the future.
      Gold can be sized and worked many times.
      If however your ring shank is thin you should have it re-shanked.
      May your class ring give you years of happy wear and memories.
      Your Personal Jeweler,
      Calla Gold

      Reply

  16. emma hughes
    June 29, 2015

    Hi I have my nans engagement ring which I want to use as my own. How long would it take to fit a new shank and change from 18 ct gold to white gold?

    Reply

    • Calla Gold
      June 29, 2015

      Hi Emma,
      That sounds like about a two week to four week turnaround for something like that. It sounds like we’d be taking the diamonds from a yellow gold ring and setting it in a white gold ring.
      Sounds like a nice project.
      Your Personal Jeweler,
      Calla

      Reply

  17. Tom
    July 23, 2015

    I purchased a heavy gold men’s signet ring many about 20 years ago at a local jewelry store. I had it sized when I bought it. About 5 years ago I took it back to the same store as the band was getting thin. They reshanked the ring.

    About two weeks ago about a 1/4 of the band fell off. I noticed it when I was driving. The band broke at he bottom center and a 1/4 way up one side of the ring. The piece that fell out is lost.

    Why did this happen?

    Reply

    • Calla Gold
      July 24, 2015

      Hi Tom,
      I’m reading your story and thinking two things, one I’m thinking about metal fatigue and wondering if there was some microbending happening. I’m seriously guessing here. Another thought that occurs is that the work may have been done with laser which can create a less secure weld bond of metals than the open flame solder method that heats the entire connection area.
      This is a blog post about laser welding:
      http://www.callagold.com/jewelry-repair/how-laser-ring-soldering-fixes-fragile-and-unfixable-rings/
      It shows open flame soldering and laser welding.
      I had a custom ring I made that had a piece that had to be attached after diamond setting. I used laser welding. Unfortunately it broke off within a year. We very carefully open flame soldered it on and it has been on ever since. I realized that the welding connection just wasn’t deep enough for the stress that the piece was getting being a daily wear ring.
      I told my client that the design may have been an unsustainable one. She really loved that detail. I told her I took responsibility for her ring and if this hurt the diamonds I’d make a new ring but without that troublesome element. That fact was that the sturdiness of open flame solder was the only thing that’d work. But I risked killing a diamond or two. Once the piece was on I wouldn’t be able to reach the diamonds for re-setting because of the piece over them. Lucky for me the shielding technique we used worked. Yay.
      I tell you this because if laser was used to connect the new shank section it could have been a weaker join than if it was open flame soldered.
      Now the fact of the middle part breaking away is why I mentioned metal fatigue as the middle of the bottom of a ring is the area that receives the most stress from wear. So perhaps the two places it broke had different stressors.
      It is not ideal that this happened, but I appreciate your bringing your unusual story to the blog conversation.
      Your Personal Jeweler,
      Calla

      Reply

  18. Sarah
    October 13, 2015

    Is it possible to reshank a plain ring? I can send you a picture of the type of ring if required. It’s not needed yet I just can’t find the answer anywhere

    Reply

    • Calla Gold
      October 14, 2015

      Hi Sarah,
      I’m not sure what you mean by a plain ring. I welcome you to send me a picture. Try my callagold@gmail.com email as it doesn’t tend to spam first time senders with images.
      I’ll tell you about a guy I helped recently and this may apply to your situation. He had his grandfather’s wedding band and had worn it for about 35 years. It was very thin. It had bent this way and that and finally cracked, so my client wiggled it off and found me on the internet and called me.
      This ring was ridiculously thin and in fact had cut into his finger one time and drawn blood. I told him it was too thin to be worn safely. He said I want to wear my grandfather’s ring until I can’t anymore. Well it was at that point. I told him I could make him a new ring slightly wider and inlay his grandfather’s band in it. I’d make it comfort fit so it’d slide on and off easier.
      He reluctantly agreed. He’s now wearing it daily and loving it and telling friends how he’d worn it out and it was part of his new ring.
      Please send me pictures of your ring and I’ll see what can be done for you.
      Your Personal Jeweler,
      Calla

      Reply

  19. amy sustaita
    January 13, 2016

    Good afternoon, I have a question I am looking into taking small diamonds from one set and would like to buy a 8-10mm gold band and have them inserted into the wide gold band. My question is how thick does the band need to be to support the diamonds?

    Reply

    • Calla Gold
      January 14, 2016

      Hello Amy,
      It depends on how deep (the measurement from the top of your diamond to the bottom, pointy part called the culet) is. Another factor is the setting style you’d like to use. If you have small diamonds that you want to kind of sink into the band then the depth of your band must be deep enough to prevent the culet from scratching your finger when you put on and wear your ring.
      If you will bezel set (http://www.callagold.com/definition/bezel-setting-jewelry-definition/), the diamonds you have a bit more leeway especially if your bezel settings can pop up slightly from your band. If you plan to prong set them you’ll want to make sure that the band is strong enough to support the prongs, but it doesn’t have to be especially deep since the prongs allow the diamonds to be set on top of the band.
      Three millimeters is often as thick as a band can go and still feel comfortable on the hand.
      Another option is to have the gold band you want custom made to accommodate your diamonds. Have the setting design cast in. This allows you the option of more complex designs like channel setting, (http://www.callagold.com/definition/channel-setting-style-jewelry-defintion/) or a style that pleases you the most.
      Your Personal Jeweler,
      Calla

      Reply

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