24

Sep.

French Wire Finish for Your Pearls; It’s Stronger and Prettier

By Calla Gold

Gold tone French Wire Finish on Pearl Necklace

French Wire Finishing the Stringing of This Pearl Necklace

What’s in a Tiny Finishing Detail in Stringing Like French Wire Finish?

Have you ever wondered why some pearls or beaded necklaces break more quickly? Or why some just look great and others look like they’ve been “cheaply” strung? French wire finish may be the difference you’ve noticed.

As a restringing jeweler, I am frequently asked why French wire finish is desirable and how it works. So I’ll put it all in one place for the future!

What is French Wire Finish?

Detail of fraying of a stringing job on pearls

Fraying Happens More Quickly Without French Wire Finish to Protect the Silk String

French wire is a very thin, very tightly wound coil of metal wire used at the end of pearl and beaded necklaces. Imagine a Slinky shrunk down until it was only 2 or 3mm in width. Tiny. That’s what French wire looks like. It’s a tiny, hollow, Slinky-like coil of metal.

How French Wire Works

I’ll get a bit technical here. Feel free to look at the pictures and skip this section.

We start by knotting the last few inches of silk thread at the end of your pearl necklace. Then we run the French wire through the clasp’s ring, connecting it to the stringing thread. We weave the French wire around the stringing thread on the end ring. The end of the stringing thread is then finally threaded back through the last several pearls and knotted off. What we’re left with is an attractive metallic loop of French wire protecting the stringing thread in its most vulnerable and breakable area. The area connecting the pearls to the clasp.

Check out a video: “How to Use French Wire” to see how it works visually.

Flexible French wire for French wire finish

French Wire Comes in a Long Uncut Section. I Only Use a Small Amount Per Job

The Two Purposes for French Wire

1. The first purpose for using French Wire is it gives a necklace a finished, professional, and aesthetic, pleasing look. It conceals the stringing thread or wire so that all we see is the gold or silver colored French wire.

2. The second purpose is that it protects the string from rubbing and abrading against the metal clasp. Abrasion of string: not good! Too much abrasion of string: loss of mother’s pearl necklace! Not good at all!

A French Wire Finish For Every Necklace

French wire typically comes in three different colors: gold, silver, and rose. It comes in different sizes, too, depending on the size of the pearls, beads, and/or the stringing thread or wire.

Pearl clasp with french wire finish detail

Another look at the beauty of French Wire Finish

Why I love French Wire Finish in my Restringing Work

I restring almost all pearl necklaces with a French wire finish. Again, not only is it stronger, it just looks better. Next time you have to get your pearl or other precious bead necklace restrung, choose a jeweler who knows how to use a French wire finish.

Restringing Jeweler,
Calla Gold

Want to learn more about pearls?  Check out these blog posts

Choosing Pearls: Five Things You Need to Consider

Pearls, Your Jewelry Divas and How to Store Them

Top Ten Reasons To Restring Your Pearls

The Pitfalls of Pearl Restringing – What Might Happen After Restringing

Why Pearl Ring Sizing Costs More

Pearls Must Be Knotted! Or Pearl Restringing with Knots

Ten Ways to Casual-ify Your Pearl or Bead Necklace

 

 

 

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10 Responses to “French Wire Finish for Your Pearls; It’s Stronger and Prettier”

madeleine Vite October 3rd, 2012 at 8:05 am


I really like the look of the french wire finish for my pearls. I like its a very clean look.
Recently I had someone else string my pearls and they used a funky brass cap thing to hold the last knot. It looks tacky and I wished I’d been given this as a choice. I’ll be calling Calla Gold Jewelry, sooner than later!

Calla Gold October 3rd, 2012 at 7:36 pm


Mady,
I’m sorry to hear of your non-French wire finish re-string job. Call me when you want to change it!
Your Personal Jeweler,
Calla

Rae Largura October 3rd, 2012 at 10:35 am


Thank you so much for this information. I have never heard about the french wire finish before and I now see that it matters in high quality jewelry.

Calla Gold October 3rd, 2012 at 7:36 pm


Rae,
I’m pleased to shed light on french wire finish and how pretty it looks and how it adds strength to your restringing.
Calla Gold

Alison October 7th, 2012 at 12:35 pm


This post on French wire finish just popped up when I was Google-ing pearl re-stringing. This little detail is one I really want on my pearls. I’ve seen it before, but didn’t know that was called French wire finish. Now I do!
It’s a beautiful touch that serves an important purpose-protecting your pearls. Sign me up!
A.

Calla Gold October 7th, 2012 at 5:11 pm


Alison,
Good old Google, I guess if I write about it they’ll tell you! I love the intuitiveness of Google, they knew what you really wanted to know! French Wire Finish.
Thanks for responding about it!
Calla Gold

Sierra January 13th, 2013 at 1:22 am


This is wonderful, thank you for sharing. I am a beader and have been wondering what French Wire was for. I am going to start using this! But I dont understand your description on how to finish off pearl knots. I understand how it works for beading wire. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thank you Calla.

Calla Gold January 13th, 2013 at 6:21 am


Hi Sierra,
Since using French Wire is a bit complicated by the fact that it is slightly wider than the silk stringing string, I’ll give you a link to an excellent JCK (Jeweler’s Circular Keystone) article that addresses this in a pretty step by step way.
http://www.jckonline.com/article/285328-Restringing_Pearls_Part_II.php
I hope you’ll visit the blog again Sierra!
Calla Gold

Teri Huestis December 30th, 2015 at 7:39 pm


WHERE can I purchase French Wire???Thank U…

Calla Gold December 30th, 2015 at 8:38 pm


Hi Teri,
Rio Grande carries it.
Your Personal Jeweler,
Calla

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