14
Jan.
Calculating the Cost of Gold Jewelry,Is There a Rule of Thumb?
So Many Questions About Gold Prices
What is the cost of gold jewelry? How does the cost of gold jewelry compare to the price per ounce of gold on the metals market?
Are rings more expensive by weight than chains? What is retail markup? What makes one type of gold jewelry more expensive than another?
Here at Calla Gold Jewelry we get asked and try to answer all kinds of jewelry questions. With help from my mathematically happening husband Jeremy, we take on these questions!
Is There a Rule of Thumb to Predicting the Cost of Gold Jewelry to Buy?
Is there a rule of thumb a person can use to calculate the cost of a 14k piece of jewelry? I wish it were that easy. Let’s break it down in to what we can figure out.
24kt vs. 14kt.
24k gold is 100% gold. Why the number “24”? All you need to know is it’s an ancient story having to do with kings and seed pods, best left for another time.
Do know this: 14k gold is 14 parts real gold and 10 parts other metals, or expressed as a percentage, 58% gold and 42% other stuff. 18k gold is 75% gold and 25% other junk.
Ounces vs. Grams
Unfortunately, pure gold is typically sold by the ounce while karat jewelry (kt.) is usually sold by the gram. Thus, we have to convert ounces to grams to find out the cost of the gold in a particular piece of jewelry.
One troy ounce equals 31.1 grams. If pure gold is selling for $1700 per ounce in the metal markets, then one gram is going for $54.66 ($1700/31.1g).
“Give Me a For Instance”
So let’s say a particular 14k gold chain weighs 20 grams. Remember, only 58% of the weight is pure gold. The other 42% is a conglomeration of other metals. (Called alloy metals). So: 58% of 20g = 11.6g. In other words, out of that 20 gram chain, only 11.6 grams of it are pure gold. And with gold at $1700/oz.—or $54.66/gram—the gold in the chain would be worth $634 ($54.66 x 11.6 = $634).
Three Reasons it Costs Way More in the Store
But wait! In the store that 20 gram chain is selling for $1,560. What’s up with that?
1. Our calculations up to this point haven’t included the cost of the other metals.
2. We haven’t figured in the cost of labor to make the chain.
3. We haven’t bumped up the price to a retail level. So far, we’ve been figuring things out on a beginning level.
Explanation With Lots of Math!
What this means is that if the 20 gram chain is selling for $1,560 and $634 is the cost of the gold, the other $926 ($1560 – $634 = $926) includes the cost of the other metals, the labor, and the jeweler’s profit. What percentage is the cost of the other metals? The labor? And the markup from the jeweler? Unknown!
All I can tell you with certainty is that if pure gold is selling for $1700/oz. and the weight of the 14k chain is 20 grams, then the gold is worth $634. There is no way to know what the jeweler paid for the chain from the manufacturer. Furthermore, we don’t know what gold was going for at the time of purchase. The jeweler might have bought it when gold was at $1500 per ounce. Or $1800 per ounce!
Gemstones Add a Level of Complexity
Finally, we’ve only talked about the gold. If there are gemstones in the piece… Yikes! So for that reason we’ll just speak to gold-only jewelry in seeking a rule of thumb.
“What Should I Expect the Markup to Be?”
To have a rule of thumb on what mark-up to expect, think a minimum of double. If the cost of a chain is $500.00 expect to pay $1,000.00 or more. A machine made chain will have a cost of the gold, plus alloyed metals, plus labor to make it.
Any retail mark-up of course takes into account rents, marketing, staffing and we just won’t go there. Just know that the reason you can’t get it at the price the jeweler does is because you aren’t buying a kilo at a time from that particular manufacturer.
The Cost of Making Chains vs. Earrings
A popular style of gold chain will be more reasonably priced than say a pair of earring as an earring takes more time and steps to make. Also a company might make 100 pair of earrings in one year, while they make 1,000 pieces of a frequently ordered chain style.
They can make that chain style again and again for years, but the styles of earrings change regularly, and the cost of designing and testing each earring style would increase the overall cost of the earrings as well.
“How Do Designer Jewelry and Custom Jewelry Prices Get Figured Out?”
If you have a one-of-a-kind custom made ring created for you, your price to be paid will be greater, than a similar weight ring that was factory made. The price needs to pay the designer and the individual tasks of wax carving, casting, polishing, setting and putting on the special finishes or textures or engraving that make your ring unique.
A custom wedding or engagement ring has no economy of scale because it is one of a kind. So expect to pay more for the singular care that goes into its making.
The Bigger the Factory….
The more multiples of that piece of jewelry that are out there in the marketplace, the less you pay by weight for the design and initial set up to make it. That cost has been absorbed by the many pieces made.
You Are an Individual and There’s No Rule of Thumb About You
Where you’re getting the “only one” or ” that style made just for you,” you are paying for art, not something readily available. The fame and popularity of the designer will also have an effect the price you’ll pay for their design work.
There really is no rule of thumb for figuring this stuff out, but now that you are armed with some information, I hope you feel more comfortable when shopping for jewelry and know what to expect.
Get something that is as unique as you are.
Calla Gold
8 Responses to “Calculating the Cost of Gold Jewelry,Is There a Rule of Thumb?”
Hi Lee,
It is complex figuring out the old gold jewelry recycling value. I lean on my husband Jeremy, the math wiz of the business to figure this stuff out.
We get a lot of scrap gold when clients are haiving me do jewelry repairs or want custom work done. It does bring down the price of their projects.
If I had to do it all myself I wouldn’t be able to get my regular jewelry designing and other work done. It’s time consuming separating out the different karats of gold, removing gems and clasps (Clasps contain non-gold and need to be figured out differently), and then doing the math for my clients.
Calla Gold
Hello Calla Gold Jewelry,
This blog post covered all the information about gold pricing in jewelry. Prices, weight, purity etc. all things are easily understandable in your article.
Nice!
Shane
Hi Shane,
I’m glad you liked it. I wanted to get the feedback of another jeweler, so this is just great! I hope all is well with you and yours in Australia!
Calla Gold
Calla Gold Jewelry
This is a pretty gutsy post. I’ve asked the question before, why does jewelry cost what it does? Not because I want a wholesale price, just because I want to know so that I don’t feel stupid or ripped off.
I like your Calla Gold Jewelry blog here and will check it out again.
Thank you Eddie for the gutsy comment. I love it. I hope your next jewelry purchase feels easy and pleasant!
Calla Gold
The article is quite informative however I somehow do not agree with rule of thumb of minimum double of gold price. I recently purchased 22K gold chain( In Canada). I paid only 25% more than the actual gold price. I believe this article is more biased towards jewelers than the buyers…..Arvind
Hello Arvind,
Well done on the low mark-up you paid on your high karat chain. I personally do not sell high karat pre-made jewelry, so I am weaker in that area.
I’ve been asked so many times how jewelry is priced that I wrote this blog post to answer from my perspective.
Calla Gold
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Lee January 14th, 2013 at 12:28 pm
Great article. I wrote one on this and I had to actually take some scrap gold that came in and weigh it and price it out for customers! I passed, and I’m not a math whiz…it’s very confusing!!